From The Road To The Somme

“1914 West Belfast regiment, Ulster Volunteer Force – 36th (Ulster) division, Royal Irish Rifles.” Men from the West Belfast Ulster Volunteers – which included the Shankill and Woodvale areas – joined the 9th battalion of the Royal Irish Rifles, which became part of the 107th brigade of the 36th division.

The main part of this new gable-sized board places two colourised photographs on top of each other. The first (upper) photo shows shows the first and second battalions of the West Down regiment being presented with their colours in May, 1914 (CyberProd). The second (lower) photo shows the first and second battalions of the West Belfast regiment receiving the Kings colours in May, 1914 (CyberProd).

In the bottom left corner is a poem called “Sons of Ulster” written on a scroll: “Muster round me Sons of Ulster,/And pay heed to what I speak,/Of the war to end all wars,/In the place where hell is deep.//Go and help to save the Empire,/Glorious deeds shall Ulster reap./Go and fight for King and Country,/In the place where hell is deep.//The order goes out – “Fix Bayonets!”/As Zero Hour does creep,/Ulster’s prime stands tall in line,/In the place where hell is deep.//No-Man’s Land hears a whistling band,/From Thiepval Wood they sweep./The crosses grow where the Ancre flows,/In the place where hell is deep.//With bomb and gun they repelled the Hun,/The Redoubt they die to keep./They fought as one did Ulster’s Sons,/In the place where hell is deep.//To the Glory of God on this sacred sod,/Where Ulster’s Blood does seep,/Yours and mine slaughtered like swine,/In the place where hell is deep.//Death patiently waits in this stalemate,/For Ulster’s love will weep,/The poppies grow where the Ancre flows,/In the place where hell is deep.”

In the bottom right, the Ulster Tower is dedicated: “‘Field Marshall Sir Henry Hughes Wilson, 1st Baronet, GCB, DSO, MP, Colonel Commandant, Rifle Brigade, Chief Of The Imperial General Staff. Field Marshall Sir Henry Hughes Wilson of County Longford, was one of the most senior British Staff Officers to serve int he First World War. On 18th November 1921, in the stead of Sir Edward Carson and Sir James Craig, who were both ill at the time, Sir Henry undertook the solemn duty of dedicating the newly constructed Ulster Memorial Tower, on the site of the Somme battlefield. Tragically, on 22nd June 1922, Sir Henry, who also served as a Unionist politician, was assassinated outside his London home.”

Conway Street, Shankill, west Belfast, replacing Ulster Tower.

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Shankill Community Festival

“Celebrating our heritage, inspiring tomorrow.” This year’s Greater Shankill Community Festival began on June 30th with the launch of Ulster’s American Connection and will end with a Siege Of Derry re-enactment on July 11th – the full programme can be found on Fb. One event included in the festival is the “Long Kesh Inside Out” exhibition in the Shankill ACT, which opened on June 1st.

Shankill Road at Iceland, replacing the Stewart’s Yard sign.

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Open Season

“Open gates. Open borders. Open season. Your sheep. Their feast.” Politicians from Sınn Féın, the SDLP, Alliance, and People Before Profit are shown opening the gates for masked and armed men who are coming from the sea and bidding them to enter a sheepfold of “our constituents”.

The PSNI are investigating the banner as a “hate incident” (rather than a “hate crime” – see A New Evil for the difference) (BelTel). On July first, it was reported that the banner had been removed and replaced with Union Flags and an Ulster Banner (Belfast Media | News Letter). Belfast City Council denied that it was involved in the removal (BelTel) – Loughside Park is council property. And as these pictures show, by July third it had been reinstated and the removal was only “temporary” and “tactical” (BelTel | Fb).

Shore Road, north Belfast

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Shore Crescent Bonfire

Shore Crescent prepares for Eleventh Night with a bonfire and a large sign explaining the positive impact of the tradition:

“Shore Crescent bonfire – a proud loyalist tradition. Standing firm in our heritage, our loyalty & our values. Faith – loyalty – respect – heritage. [The bonfire …] Celebrates our heritage – honours our history, culture and the sacrifices made by those who went before us; strengthens our community – brings families, friends and neighbours together, building unity, pride and a sense of belonging; affirms our loyalty – a clear and proud expression of our loyalty to the Crown and the United Kingdom; educates & remembers – teaches future generations the importance of our traditions and the true meaning behind them; promotes respect & pride – shows respect for our values and beliefs and promotes pride in being Loyalist; supports local [groups] & raises funds – helps support local groups, charities and initiatives that make a real difference; secures our future – by standing together today, we protect our identity, freedom and way of life for tomorrow. One tradition. One community. One loyal people. Shore Crescent loyal.”

Next to Loughside Playground, Shore Road, north Belfast

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The Uncrowned King Of Ulster

Text above: “Sir Edward Carson 1854 – 1935 “Uncrowned King of Ulster” Founding member and leader of the Ulster Volunteers. Carson led Ulster Unionist resistance to the British Government’s attempts to introduce Home Rule for the whole of Ireland.”

The epithet “uncrowned King” seems to be generally used of Carson and not attributable to any one source. Here is a September 1912 newspaper article that calls Carson the “uncrowned King of the North” and relays criticisms of a Carson reception in Portadown as “a parody upon a royal reception” and “an insult to the King”. A May 1914 review of (the book) The Reign Of Edward Carson refers to “King Carson”. (Here is a postcard depicting Carson as a king upon a throne – Postcards Ireland. And a cartoon showing “The Ulster King-At-Arms“.)

The phrase is an echo of and response to the phrase “uncrowned king of Ireland”, which was used of both O’Connell and Parnell. Here is an 1847 article describing both O’Connell and the Napoleonic Governor-General of Algeria (WP) as “uncrowned monarch[s]”. According to WP, the epithet was first applied to Parnell in 1880, because he was so popular during a tour of the United States and Canada. At the end of James Joyce’s story ‘Ivy Day In The Committee Room’ a character recites a poem about Parnell, beginning “He is dead. Our uncrowned king is dead” (archive.com).

The wording “the British government’s attempts to introduce Home Rule” is more forthright than we are used to. Typically the resistance is simply to “Home Rule”. This wording makes clear that the Ulster Volunteers were a private militia preparing for the possibility of fighting the regular British Army and Navy. By being so explicit, this wording suggests that we are currently living through a time in which loyalists consider the “British government” to be insufficiently British, just as was the case in 1912.

Text below: “Sir Edward Carson being escorted by members of the Ulster Special Service Force on the Newtownards Road passing the Belvoir Bar in the company of Captain James Craig and the Officer Commanding of the Ulster Volunteer Force Sir George Richardson.”

According to a Regimental Band Fb post, “Sir Edward Carson was speaking at the Reform Club in Royal Avenue. There was an opinion that the British Government were going to try and arrest him so he was escorted to the safety of Craigavon House [shown on the right of the mural]. This photo was taken on the 20th March, 1914.” This October 1913 article, in addition to calling Carson “Ulster’s Uncrowned King”, notes that he travelled with a detective and carried a revolver.

By Dee Craig (Fb), presumably, replacing his hooded gunmen mural The Right To Defend Yourself, on the Newtownards Road at (the former) Bright Street.

The other two murals (visible in the wide shot) are We Are The Pilgrims and Nearer My God To Thee. The “UVF on parade” board next to the taxi office was previously across the street. For the banner above the Mace, see Henry Nowak.

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Ultra Eddie

Eddie The Trooper makes an appearance as a Coleraine FC (“the pride of Ulster”) supporter, stomping on the grave of rival clubs Cliftonville (left) and Ballymena (right).

The sticker is in Dee Street, east Belfast

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Culture Before Cash, 2026

Bonfires will be lit across Northern Ireland on “Eleventh Night” (July 11th) and builders will be working until then in order to build the pyres high. The one shown here is in the Ravenhill Road area of east Belfast, constructed out of shipping palettes (see Commonwealth Handling Equipment). As an alternative, Belfast City Council will fund the construction of much smaller beacons. (The programme was previously called the “Bonfire Management” programme and is now the “Bonfire And Cultural Expression” programme.) The Ravenhill builders, both this year and last, consider this a sell-out. (See previously, Culture Before Cash (2014) | Real Loyalists Will Never Be Bought).

The flag on the bonfire shows a hooded volunteer with an RPG (taken from an old mural in the Shankill), with the lettering “RYL” (“Ravenhill Young Loyalists”) and “CRT” (“Clonduff Rocket Team”).

Lismore Road, east Belfast. See previously: Dump Wood – No Shite.

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I Want The Ulster Volunteers

The UVF boards at the junction of London and My Lady’s roads in east Belfast have been completely replaced (compared to 2022). The hooded gunmen on the short side have been replaced by “Joy, peace, love” while a tribute to David Ervine now replaces the lettering reading “East Belfast Ulster Volunteer Force”. (For more about Ervine, and the UVF roll of honour, see the parallel entry in the Paddy Duffy Collection.)

The largest panel remains a tribute to the dead of WWI, specifically now the “3rd battalion (Mountpottinger)” of the East Belfast regiment of the Ulster Volunteers who “marched to the old town hall in Victoria Street accompanied by the Duke Of York Pipe Band and around 270 members volunteered”. The long text explains the negotiation between Kitchener and Craig over the formation of the 36th Division, that the East Belfast volunteers joined the 8th Battalion of the Royal Irish Rifles, and that “training took place at Ballykinlar in County Down and the Battalion became known as “Ballymacarret’s Own”.”

The final image shows the trio of photographs of the UVF flute band. The middle photograph has been changed since the launch, as it was of the band marching past the site of the 1992 Sean Graham bookies massacre to which family-members of the victims objected (Crime World) – compare the image below with the original in the Paddy Duffy Collection. The photograph now in its place is of the band outside the Longfellow bar, which still stands in My Lady’s Road, facing these boards.

The full (and uncorrected) text of the central information board reads as follows:
“Recruitment of the East Belfast Volunteers to the 36th (Ulster) Division Association began on Monday 7th September 1914. The 3rd Battalion (Mountpottinger) marched to the old town hall in Victoria Street accompanied by the Duke of York Pipe Band and around 270 members volunteered. By Monday 14th September 1044 men from the East Belfast Volunteers enlisted in the 8th Battalion, Royal Irish Rifles. This number represented slightly over 10% of the East Belfast’s UVF strength. There were reasons why all the East Belfast Volunteers did not enlist in 8 RIR. Many UVF men were Reservists, therefore when war was declared they were called back to their original units. By the 3rd October there was 15 officers and 1065 other ranks. [We] cannot mention the 8th Battalion of the Royal Irish Regiment in 1914 without mentioning th[e East] Belfast Regiment of the Ulster Volunteer Force. The Ulster Volunteer Force (UVF) was formed in January 1913 in response to the threat of Home Rule by the government in Westminster. The Unionist leadership at the time of the Home Rule Crises was led by Edward Carson and James Craig and it was they along with others who established the UVF. The East Belfast Regiment consisted of 6 battalions:– Willowfield, Avoniel, Mountpottinger, Victoria, Strandtown & Knock, Newtownbreda and Ballynafeigh. In May 1914 the Regiments strength as 7100 by the Royal Irish Constabulary. The volunteers consisted of mainly working-class men employed in the shipyards and other industries that fed the industrial revolution.
On 6th August 1914, Lord Kitchener, issued a blunt request to Colonel T.E. Hickman (President of the British League for the Defence of Ulster and an Inspector General of the UVF): “I want the Ulster Volunteers”. Hickman suggested Kitchener negotiate with James Craig and Edward Carson. Thus began a month of meetings and horse trading between these men, before the Ulster Division was established. Initially Carson wanted guarantees. The Home Rule issue was to be sorted before he committed the volunteers. He insisted if the UVF joined, then they should be kept as a single division and not spread piecemeal throughout the army. He further demanded this division should have the title “Ulster” attached to it. Kitchener initially opposed these requests, believing the UVF should simply enlist. Once he accepted a single division would be created, he tried to prevent the title Ulster being used, noting other locally recruited units did not enjoy this privilege. Meetings continued throughout August, and near the end of the month a deal was struck: the Home Rule Bill would be passed on 18th September, but would be immediately suspended; permission was given to form a division; the Ulster prefix was deemed acceptable; and Hickman and Craig were appointed chief recruiting officers.
The 8th Battalion Royal Irish Rifled was formed, mainly but not exclusively from the East Belfast Volunteers. Training took place at Ballykinlar in County Down and the Battalion became know as “Ballymacarrets Own”. It took part in the 36th (Ulster) Division Review which saw thousands of members of the 36th marching past Belfast City Hall in front of tens of thousands of families and friends before departing to England were training would take place before they sailed for France. They moved into the trenches of the Western Front for the first time on 11 October 1915. As they were new to the fron line, each company of the battalion was attached to other serving regiments for instruction. The first casualty was recorded in the trenches at Mailly-Maillet on 15th October 1915. Second Lieutenant RME Pettigrew was shot through the face later sent back to England. Pettigrew was the first officer from the 8th Battalion to be wounded on active service. He never recovered from his wounds and died on 10th June 1916. The Battle of the Somme commenced on the 1st July 1916 and ended on the 18th November 1916. However it was the first two days on the horrendous battle that saw the 36th (Ulster) Division achieve it’s goals but due to the failure on it’s flanks by other Divisions the land gained was lost as the Ulstermen suffered huge casualties and left the frontline on the 2nd July. Some 5000 men from the Division died or where injured on the 1st July. Their contribution drew priase from many including the King and to this day their sacrifice not just at the Somme but in Flanders Fields, Belgium is remembered with pride and dignity throughout the province of Ulster. The fields of the Somme and Flanders contain grave after grave after grave of our forefathers who never came home and lie in foreign fields. Their sacrifice should never be forgotten.”

London Road and My Lady’s Road, east Belfast

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Times Bar Bombing

A memorial service was held at the Times Bar on Friday June 5th (News Letter) to mark the fiftieth anniversary of the attack on the Times Bar in 1976, in which Edward McMurray and Robert Groves were killed by a republican bomb. (An image of the bombed bar can be found on Xitter.)

Three plaques were added to the memorial garden where the service took place, to William Haddock, James Smyth, and William Flynn. (Compare to 2019.)

As the images from May 10th in the Paddy Duffy Collection show, a painted mural was originally planned for the spot.

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When All That Was Solid Melted Into Air

At its peak, the Harland & Wolff shipyard employed 35,000 people (IndustriAll) and the flat-capped worker became a symbol of east Belfast, along – much later – with Samson and Goliath, the two gantry cranes at the shipyard that were raised in 1974 and 1969 (WP) and which have become the symbol of Belfast.

The title of this entry is the first line of Martin Mooney’s poem ‘Launching The Whaler Juan Peron.

The silhouetted workers and cranes are on a mobile office in Fraser Pass, Newtownards Road, Belfast, at the end of the Pitt Stop next to the Belfast Bikes racks.

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